Saturday 3rd September – Lefkada to Sivota

We left the hotel we had been staying in for 3 nights, located on the wet coast of Lefkada, around 1045.  We had intended to stay a little longer at the hotel but were persuaded to turn up to Ionian Sails earlier as they pleaded ‘come now, come now, boat ready max 3hrs, 3 hrs.’  Not sure why we continue to be taken in by these exhortations! We turned up at the office and admittedly it was quiet but were told they had not started cleaning the boat and refused to give a time when it might be ready.  Takis was to be our skipper and we met him later on the boat. There was a bit of a miscommunication with the supermarket when we asked for delivery – intending it to come around 1700 – but in the earnest to get our trolleys out of the shop they immediately took all of it to the boat. Danny and myself dumped it on the quayside and waited patiently for the cleaners to finish whilst Alice and Gillian went to the butchers and bakers – but not candlestick makers. We met up with Takis and it took a little while for us to synch our plans but Takis quickly understood what it was we wanted to do.  I sent a link to our previous trip to give an impression of the type of cruising we preferred.  It is quite difficult for each skipper to sound out and get it just right as each group wants something slightly different.  But Takis was quick to make a great plan for the week.  The boat thankfully was very clean and in stark contrast to last year.

We left for Sivota around 1700, arriving around 1945.  It was a straightforward motor down the canal and then between the Islands following a long line of yachts who had similar ideas to ours. We discerned very early on that the skipper was well connected and this proved t be very helpful. He was able to secure a place on a pontoon which included water and electricity.  Jenny’s flight from the UK was delayed and did not land till around 2000hrs and she arrived with us courtesy of Petros at 2100hrs.  

Sivota has much changed since we last visited.  Perhaps it had been quieter due to Covid.  This year it was packed with charter and private boats.  The restaurants were full – although it was still relatively easy to get a table.  But the quiet little place that we had previously come to was definitely not there any longer.  We ate at the 12 Gods Restaurant.  Starters were good – vine leaves and meatballs – mains were not so good – overcooked and a bit bland.  But with a couple of 1ltr jugs of Rose – who cared!  Takis joined us for supper and we were able to start to get to know each other.

The good news for the evening was Alice announcing she was pregnant. Wonderful news. Once Jenny found out she burst into tears of happiness for both of them. What a great way to start the holida

Back on board we had a pleasant evening before turning in for the night.  

Sunday 4th September – Sivota – Sarakiniko Bay  – Filiatro Beach

Alice, Jenny and Danny were up early to watch the sun rise.  I got up to make coffee and do some test flying with the drone.  The harbour looked much more peaceful in the morning with a few boats were leaving early.  We were all beginning to feel a little more at ease in a familiar spot, with shopping completed and a good night sleep.

Jenny went off for a run whilst Alice and Danny went to the excellent bakery for croissants and coffees.  By the time they came back we were ready to leave.  Today was an anchoring day with Takis choosing to go down the East side of N Ithaki.  We motored for a couple of hours to a lovely bay that only had a couple of boats in when we arrived.  Our first swim which is always a bit special.  All was going well till Jenny got stung by a jelly fish – a little bit of screaming but mainly out of shock.  It did leave a swelling on her stomach and arm – but as the Aperol was coming out, this was soon forgotten.

Gillian prepared brunch making use of the croissants from the bakery, bread, cheese and ham.  She had worked out from last year that you just put out the amount that is needed – the more you put out the more is eaten!  A very lazy morning with a bit of swimming, Danny inflating the SUP, some reading and catching up on the start of the Golden Globe Race – non-stop solo around the world in a retro boat.  No digital music allowed, only cassettes, physical books, and manual watches – no quartz watches allowed!  We have decided to follow Kirsten Neuschafer from South Africa.  This will be a long trip of between 7 and nine months.

After lunch we moved bays a little north along the coast to a bay we came to last year – Filiatro Beach – Kirki Restaurant.  It was here that Marco met some ex sailing friends on the beach.  This year we have stayed on board with Gillian cooking.  

On arrival the bay was quite full with some very large yachts – not quite super yachts but certainly those that cost £100k+ a week to charter!  Takis found a great place to drop the anchor in sand and backed up very close the beach – easy swimming distance.  Danny swam towards the shoreline with two lines but rather than attach them on land, he dived down to two under the water rocks and ties them on there.  We had laid out a lot of anchor chain – probably 40m.  But this with the two sub-sea ropes locked us into a great position.  

Gillian and myself swam ashore for whilst the others played games on board.  We were back on board for 1700 for sundowners of gin and tonics.  

For the evening meal Gillian cooked a Greek sausage dish with baked aubergines, tomatoes and rice.  The original planned time of the meal was 2100hrs but at 1930hrs there was a bit of a mutiny from Alice and Jenny – they needed to eat earlier – so we went for a compromise of 2000hrs.  Takis came back aboard and joined us for the meal.  It was surprising how dark it got – very quickly.  The wind died down but a little bit of rolling from the passing ferries and larger boats in the distance. Takis went ashore for a local play that was being performed by people from his home area.  Alice, Danny and Jenny had an early night whilst Gillian and myself stayed up for a little while with a glass of Prosecco.  There was just enough breeze for a pleasant night for most of us. Danny slept on deck.

Monday 5th September (North Ithaki)  Filiatro Beach – Pera Pigadhi – North of Gidakiou – Vathy

Up at around 6:45 to watch the sun rise over the mountains in the distance.  Coffee was made for the four us as the dawn broke.  Very peaceful with the backdrop of the other yachts with their anchor lights on.  Few photos and drone shots taken.  Slight accident landing the drone with the blades just catching my hand – but nothing too serious that kitchen roll could not cover.  We lifted anchor around 0830 and motored to a very nice little cove.  Pera Pigahdi had a small island which in the Cruising Association was called Rat Island.  We passed south through a narrow channel to the other side and anchored in a small bay.  Bottom was mixture of sand and weed – but sand patches large enough you could find one to drop anchor.  We did not bother with lines to shore as we were only stopping for a late breakfast of yoghurt, peaches and honey and lunch made from the left overs last night with some additives.  

Great snorkelling and then we all went ashore and lay in the water at the edge of the beach..  Jenny and Danny got stung by jelly fish but not too serious – more of a shock than pain  In between breakfast and lunch, Danny tried to teach Jenny how to dive off the side of the boat.  Much screeching and many not too good dives.  Jenny called it a day after getting one right!  

The afternoon we went to Gidakaiou.  This time is was me who got caught out by the jelly fish on the wrist as I was trying to do an impression of an olympic swimmer. 

The evening we berthed in Vathy on the Island of North Ithaki.  Takis had used his local contacts and secured a berth right in the town centre.  Water and electricity on hand.  Cost of berthing was Euro60 plus another Euro15 for water and electric.  Euro70ish seems to be the going rate this year.  The girls and Danny went shopping and brought back some local ice-cream.  We chilled out on the boat watching the world go by!  For the evening meal, Gillian had a rest from cooking and we went to Mills Garden.  It had great reviews.  A little short staffed but where is not in these times post pandemic.  The harbour was also extremely full as a significant number of yachts had come in due to the forecasted Easterly winds.  Alice had a tomahawk pork steak which was both large and very nice.  Gillian and Danny – local tuna and I also had fresh locally caught fish – which was absolutely superb.  Jenny played safe with Chicken Souvlaki.  We even splashed out no a bottle of wine rather than the local Euro5 a carafe.  

Post meal we had a nice surprise and Marco came across from his parents boat for a catch up. It was great to see him again – looking a bit more corporate than when we had last met!  Now living in Portugal but working as a developer for a start up.  We had met his parents last year who were debating what their next boat would be – the father – lets stick with monohulls and the mother – lets get a catamaran.  Mother won out!  They had bought a Fontaine Pajot Helia 44 from Marseille and sailed to Greece where they will keep it over winter before next year going to Portugal and then across the Atlantic.

Tuesday 6th September Vathy – Bay North of Frikes and Light at NE End of Ithaki – Fiscardo

I awoke around 5:30 hearing noise on deck.  Looking out of the window in the stern cabin I could see a young girl getting off the boat smartly dressed and hair in a pony tail complete with handbag.  Having got off the boat without hesitation she turned right and walked off.  At first I thought it was Jenny going for an early morning walk – but not dressed like that.  I went on deck and she had not been inside of the boat and thought little more of it – still thinking it was Jenny.  Got up for the sunrise to find Alice and Danny wrapped up in bed sheets but no Jenny.  However she soon appeared and it was clear it was not her that I saw!  A mystery guest.  General feeling was that someone had come back late at night, could not find their boat, slept on the seat at the back of ours and then departed!

Fresh baked Greek pastries for breakfast which were still warm and extremely nice – pain au chocolate, apple and cinnamon, ham and cheese.  We left just after 1000hrs and about 30 minutes out those on deck saw 3 dolphins just swimming around the bow.  Quite a lumpy trip to the first bay

This bay at first did not look that promising, quite shallow indentation in the land – there was one other boat present.  We anchored quite close in, with one line ashore.  Looking across the landscape if looked as if there had been an Olive Grove there once but seemed now uncared for.  There was evidence of stone terraces, ruins of a small hut and a dried up river course.  After a swim Danny, Jenny and myself went for a walk ashore.  Climbing the ruined terraces we made it to a small plateau looking over the bay.  You could hear the constant sound of bells on the goats – quite a large herd.  As we walked along a sort of path they began to follow us – probably about 50 of them.  It looked as if it was feeding time as they were making their way to a sort of fair outhouse.  We walked back down to the beach and swam back out to the boat in time for lunch of cold meats, cheeses bread and salad.  

Later in the afternoon we made our way into Fiscardo.  Takis had made arrangements with the harbour master to take one of the berths that was used by the tourist boats – time was critical as we wanted to arrive as the last one was leaving for the day and before any of the other yachts grabbed the space.  There were two other boats there but they were in effect told to wait till we berthed – thats the advantage of having a local on board!  Once tied up another boat came in between us and a large catamaran.  The space was very tight and all looked good till a gust of wind just moved us slightly sideways and he bumped into our bow causing a little damage  – but not too much.  These things happen on boats!  It was a lovely spot at the end of the town quay, away from the noise and traffic.  We showered and went ashore for a cocktail.  Extremely nice and extremely strong!  Dinner was booked at a great restaurant – by far the best we had eaten in this year – Irades.  On the sea front next to the flowers growing up the side of the building where we took a family photograph in 2020.  Jenny and myself had the Fish Souvlaki which was lovely.  Gillian Salmon, Danny Port and Alice a Sea Bream with shrimps.  All washed down with a couple of 1ltr carafes of local white wine.  We also managed to fit in a bit of shopping!  Gililan and myself went back to the jewellery shop I had bought a previous birthday present from and yet again we found a lovely design piece made out of oxidised silver with a gold clasp.  Alice bought some octopus ceramic dishes and Jenny an autumn dress.

We read a little when we got back – but all of use were extremely tired.

Wednesday 7th September – Friscardo – Afales – Flute Bay)

An entertaining start to the day. Takis had spotted the previous night that one of the large motor yachts had dropped their two anchors over ours. He negotiated a departure time which was before they were leaving but hoped to get our anchor up without entangling with theirs. I went shopping for bread and pastries for breakfast, Jenny went for a run and Alice and Danny chilled out on board. Once Jenny was back on board we started our departure. But it was not to be that simple. Takis tried to pull the anchor obliquely under the yachts two heavy chains but that failed. We had to persuade them to leave earlier than they had planned. They would then lift there chain that was on top of ours and we would all be happy. Unfortunately it was a bit of a rats nest. The super yacht had to get their launch out the back and drive forward to physically untangle the chain from both anchors. This took a lot of effort and time. No doubt a great spectator sport from the shore! But all were used to this happening and it took place with good natured banter from boats and shore.

We motored across to Afales and anchored a little way from shore to avoid being trapped in by the tourist boats when they arrived. Danny, Alice, Jenny and myself took the dinghy ashore and swam off the beach for 45 mins. It was quiet and cool – only one tourist boat had arrived by the time we decided to motor back on board. Danny took the drone up and scared himself by losing sight of it a couple of times – something I am all too aware of as it happened to me yesterday.

Soon the anchor was up and we motored to the bay where we would spend the night.

Flute Bay is our name for this lovely spot on the island of Atokos. We came here one year and arrived just before sunrise anchoring in the western side of the bay. Next to us was a French catamaran with one of those on board playing a flute that echoed off the walls of the bay – quite magical. We again anchored in the western side and dropped Marco on his parents boat Kaya a WhatsApp to let them know where we had gone.

By pure coincidence they were in the same bay but anchored on the Eastern side. Marco came across to visit and play cards with the Danny, Alice and Jenny. We swam in fantastically clear water. We thought we saw some Tuna fish although we are not experts in fish identification!. Late afternoon we swapped sides and anchored next to Kaya. I swam across for a beer and chat with Joe and Liesure whilst Marco was working at the table in the background.

Gillian cooked lemon chicken with potatoes for dinner with plenty of local bread and olive oil. We then all went across to their boat in the dinghy for evening drinks into the night. Alice, Danny, Jenny and Marco were again competitive at the card table whilst the ‘parents’ chatted long into the evening. It was a wonderful night. The short trip back to the boat. Was negotiated safely. We could hear what we thought were bats flying along the cliffs. It was an extremely pleasant and relaxing stay in one of our favourite bays

Thursday 8th September Flute Bay (Atokos) – Wasp Bay (Kastos)

We were up early but the sunrise comes very late above the cliff tops. Whilst flying the drone a local fishing boat puttered into our bay doing a little fishing and leaving some lobster pots. Joe came across to speak with Takis looking for some advice on local marine services in Leaks. Hopefully a productive chat for both of them. We had a last swim in the sea. The snorkelling was great. And the bay itself felt so calm and peaceful. There were 3 boats our side and one yacht on the other side. No-one else around. We left around 1100 and headed towards Kastos. We are all trying not to think about this being our last full day at sea!

Our bay for the day was Wasp Bay on the island of Kastos – just south of Kastos harbour itself. It was delightful. Quite different from Flute Bay which was surrounded by high cliffs, this backed onto gentle wooded slopes with a beach at the end. The swimming was great. Quite shallow so the water had warmed up especially the top layer. Most of the day was spent swimming and snorkelling. Jenny had perfected the dive from the back of the boat – now came the test of diving off the ledge – some spectacular belly flops! Gillian prepared lunch of chicken and spaghetti. Takis had found us some forks in Fiscardo – yep the boat had none on board. We also discovered that the milk I had bought that morning was in fact bottled yoghurt – so no coffee today unless you liked it black. We were joined by a couple of yachts site close to us and a little distant on the other side a mini super yacht with some guests on board in a party mood.

The trip to Kastos harbour was only 15 minutes from our anchorage. Berthing was tricky. Takis picked the past slot available on the end of the harbour wall – in fact beyond the end of the harbour wall. One rope was ashore on a ring and the other through a hole in a bolder sticking out of the sea. Clearly local knowledge was very much needed to berth here. It took a while to get our anchor to hold but we managed this very well – and we found out why in the morning… to follow. The monohull inside of us had not been able to get their anchor to hold and had drifted back into the corner of the wall. Takis kindly offered to give them a hand to relay the anchor which they gladly accepted. As we were not actually on the harbour wall we had a wooden plank balanced on the end of our boat to a rock. A bit tricky for Gillian who gallantly managed it. Just Gillian and myself went ashore to do some shopping in a small supermarket and a drink in a bar that fronted onto the harbour front where we spent a quiet hour together.

Kastos has become our traditional stop. At 7pm we walked up the the cocktail bar by the windmill for drinks. Takis joined us. Last year I had left my Panama hat behind but let them know I would be back this year to collect. Amazingly they both remembered me and the hat and it was duly produced. It will need some tender loving care to get it back into shape! Dinner was at the restaurant we had used before. There are 3 on Kastos – one part of the way up the hill to the windmill and two on the front. The first is a traditional Greek restaurant and the other specialises in sea food. We went to the first and again they served us a beautiful meal.

Alice, Danny and Jenny went back to the boat whilst we went to a bar part of the way up the hill recommended by Takis – run by Alex. We had a nightcap of Bailey’s Flat White for Gillian and Johnie Red with a coffee for myself. Quite an usual place, sort of jazz like atmosphere with Alex personally serving and looking after everyone. By 2330 we were ready for bed and wandered back to the boat. Gillian decided not to walk the plank and we climbed into the German boat next to us and then across to ours. It was a very hot and muggy night. At one point I panicked and thought I had left my new Panama hat again at one of the places we had visited – I had to get up and check! Fortunately I had brought it back with me.

This day will be remembered as the Queen sadly passed away at the age of 96. She has been with us throughout our lives and came to the throne in the year Gillian was born.

Friday 9th September – Kastos – Kalamos – Lefkada

Went on deck to see the sun rise over the mountains on the Greek mainland which was just 3 miles across the water from us. For about 30 minutes you have this orange tinge on the skyline just before the sun comes into view. Jenny had gone off for a run over very hilly terrain. We left quite early – around 8am. We were expecting our anchor to have been crossed by yachts on the other side. The water was so clear you could see the chain on the bottom. We edged forward slowly and our anchors were indeed fouled with the boat nearly opposite. This had proved fortuitous as it was the fouled anchors that held both boats in place all night. Takis dived down to unhook them and we were then off for our last bay and swim of the holiday.

On previous years we have sailed across towards Lefkada and found a bay near by. Takis took us to a different island, north of Kastos – Episkopi. We found a bay at the NE tip – north of Kalamos. Another great location. Dropped anchor and went for the morning swim. Sat at the waters edge on the beach with Danny, Alice and Jenny. Gillian dozed on board after a bit of a restless night. Lunch was roasted vegetables with fried halloumi cheese. Early afternoon was sent relaxing, swimming and reading. At 1400 we weighted anchor for the last time in 2022 to return to Lefkada.

I had factored in the interminable wait at the fuel pontoon and the chaos that seems to surround the return to ‘base’. What a surprise. Bypassed the field pontoon, arrived at our berth to be met a a large team who took lines, moored the boat, refilled water and refilled on the pontoon itself. By far an away the most efficient return to port we have had.

Gabrielle the owner of the company came on board and made a point of chatting with us for 20 mins – he did this with every boat. Very impressive customer service. Takis took all our rubbish away – set up the air-conditioning and made sure we were happy for the evening.

For the previous 2 years we had eaten at Ez Zhn – a slightly quirky restaurant that was down one of the side streets in Lefkada town centre. As it was the day before Gillian’s 70th birthday we booked again via Facebook messenger which seemed to be the most reliable way of chatting with them. Gillian and myself shared a Paella. Gillian opened her birthday presents of a jet necklace bought in Whitby, the oxidised silver necklace from Fiscardo and tickets to George Ezra concert in London. It was a quiet evening as we were all pretty tired. Walking back to the boat the streets had become alive with party goers. Saturday is the changeover for all yachts and with over 200 in port it made for good business to restaurants, bars and shops.

Saturday 10th September – Lefkada – Home

We did not pack the night before as we wanted to holiday to last as long as possible. I got up a little earlier than the others to take a last drone shot of the holiday. A quick flight to look around the port. We cleared the boat up swiftly although not quite quick enough for the cleaners who were hovering on the pontoon ready to come aboard. Bags dropped at Ionian Sails, we went to Cafe Karma that overlooks the waterway around Lefkada and the ‘Bridge’. A hefty breakfast of egg, bacon, cheese and waffle – a little more than I intended. We had to change tables as the sun got higher and it got hotter – 33 deg by 1030. Gillian and myself stayed where we were whilst the others went off shopping. I took a call from the Dartmoor Pony Heritage Trust in preparation for a meeting on the Wednesday. We then strolled down to the square to have another coffee and drink before meeting up with every one for lunch opposite the Ionion Sails Pontoons. A bit of a find. A very friendly service, a great meal and free baklava’s. We spent 3 hours here before Petros picked us up for the trip back to the airport and home.